The Diverse Israeli Table-Part 8- Breaking Bread

The Diverse Israeli Table-Part 8- Breaking Bread

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     THE DIVERSE ISRAELI TABLE
     VOL 1: | MIDDLE EAST | MAGHREB | MEDITERRANEAN | EASTERN EUROPE |
     VOL 2: | CULINARY POTPOURRI | HOLIDAYS | WINE | BREAD
     
         
    Part 8: Breaking Bread
     
     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     
    Wheat fields at the Horns of Hittim
     

    When people speak today of "breaking bread", their meaning is clear: they are talking about dining. However, the original meaning of this seemingly simple phrase, which dates back to Biblical times, actually referred to the physical act of breaking bread. Even in antiquity, bread was considered so essential to the maintenance of human life that there was no act more social than sharing one's bread with others. In those days, people did not use forks and knives, but ate with their fingers. Thus, bread was never sliced, it was literally "broken" - or torn apart - to be shared.

    In time, the sharing of bread became an important social ritual, and by the time of the reign of the first Kings of Israel, complex rituals had evolved as to precisely who would be the first at a table to break bread, about sharing one's bread with friends and strangers, and even about sharing one's bread with enemies. So important in the Holy Land was this food staple, and the rituals involved in eating it, that we find no less than 600 references to bread in the Old and New Testaments, and at least eighty such references in the Koran.

    Nor was there a shortage of different kinds of bread in the Holy Land. Although most people ate the most common kinds of flat bread, the rich could choose from among as many as forty different types of bread, some of which were round, some conical, some plaited, some made with honey, some with herbs, spices and even fruits; some were made with milk and yet others with eggs.

    Modern Israelis of all religions and ethnic backgrounds love bread, and eat a large variety of it. The national repertoire also includes a number of breads that are specially baked for use during holidays.


    Easter Bread - Tsoureki

    This especially luxurious bread, meant to recall the sweetness of life, is set on the tables of members of the Greek Orthodox Church during their traditional Easter meal. In keeping with tradition, the bread is passed around the table, each diner breaking off a piece to put on his or her own plate.

    1/2 cup milk
    1 package (30 gr.) dry yeast
    1/2 cup butter, melted
    3 eggs
    1/2 cup extra fine sugar
    1 tsp. lemon rind, grated
    3 cups flour
    1 tsp. ground allspice
    1/4 tsp. salt
    sesame seeds to taste

     

    Allow the ingredients to reach room temperature before starting.

    In a small saucepan combine the milk and yeast until dissolved. Add the butter, two of the eggs, lemon rind and sugar and mix lightly but well.

    Sift the flour, allspice and salt into a bowl and make a well in the center. Pour the yeast mixture into this well and stir, blending in the flour gradually. With the hands mix the dough until it forms a ball and is free of the sides. Turn the dough onto a well floured board and knead until the mixture is smooth and satin-like. Form into a ball and transfer to an oiled bowl, rotating so that the entire surface is lightly coated with oil. Cover with a towel and let stand in a warm place until doubled in bulk.

    Punch down the dough and place it on a well floured board. Knead lightly and divide into three equal portions. Roll each portion into a tube about 12" (30 cm) long. Braid the bread carefully, pressing the ends together. Transfer the loaf to a lightly greased baking dish, cover and let rise until again doubled in bulk. Mix the remaining egg with 1 Tbsp. of water and with this brush the top of the bread. Sprinkle with sesame seeds to taste. Place in an oven that has been preheated to 180o Celsius (350o Fahrenheit) and bake until golden brown and cooked through (about 30 minutes). Remove from the oven and let cool on a rack. Yields 1 large loaf.


    Bread for Epiphany Day - Roscon de Reyes

    Known by some as Epiphany and by others as Twelfth Day, this holiday celebrates both the revealing of Jesus as the Christ to the Gentiles and the baptism of Jesus. To add to the joy of the holiday, a coin is buried in the bread and the one who finds it is thought to be the recipient of good luck. This bread was introduced to Israel by Spanish monks who settled in Bethlehem in the 19th century.

    1 package (30 gr.) dry yeast
    1 Tbsp. orange flower water or very strong tea
    6 whole cloves
    1/2 tsp. grated lemon rind
    1 cup butter
    1/2 cup sugar
    1 Tbsp. vegetable shortening
    1/2 tsp. salt
    2 eggs
    1/2 cup scalded and cooled milk
    1 Tbsp. brandy
    5 cups unbleached flour
    1 silver coin (wrapped in aluminum foil), for luck
    24 slices mixed candied fruits
    2 Tbsp. coarse sugar
    1 egg, beaten lightly with 1 tsp. cold water

     

    Dissolve the yeast in 1/4 cup of warm water.

    In a small saucepan, mix together the orange flower water with 1/2 cup water, the lemon rind and cloves. Simmer, covered, for about 10 minutes. Remove from the heat, discard the cloves and let cool.

    In a mixing bowl cream together the butter, sugar, shortening and salt. Beat in the eggs and then add the milk, brandy and orange-water mixture. Mix well and then add the yeast mixture. With a wooden spoon, stirring constantly, slowly add the flour until a soft, sticky dough is obtained. Turn out onto a lightly floured board and knead for 5 minutes, adding more flour if necessary, to obtain a smooth, elastic dough.

    Transfer the dough ball to a lightly oiled bowl, turning to coat it with the oil. Cover with a lightly dampened towel and let stand in a warm spot until doubled in size (about 2 1/2 hours). Punch down and knead again for 5 minutes. Insert the coin.

    Form the dough into a large ring, pinching the ends together to seal. Transfer to a lightly greased cookie tin, decorate with the fruit slices by pushing them about half way into the dough and let stand in a warm spot until again doubled in bulk (about 1 hour). Brush with the beaten egg, sprinkle with the coarse sugar and bake in an oven that has been preheated to 180o Celsius (350 Fahrenheit) until golden brown (about 35 minutes). Let cool before serving.


     
     

     

    Traditional baking of pita, Peki'in
     

    Saffron Doughnuts - Jalebi

    With distinctly pastry-like qualities (some compare them to doughnuts), Israeli and other Muslims who live in the Mediterranean basin consider jalebi the traditional bread with which to celebrate the end of the fast of Ramadan.

    1 envelope (30 gr.) dry yeast
    1 tsp. saffron threads
    2 3/4 cups flour, sifted
    2 cups corn syrup
    1 Tbsp. lime juice
    1 1/2 tsp. powdered nutmeg
    vegetable oil for deep frying

     

    Dissolve the yeast in 1/4 cup of warm water.

    In a separate small cup, soak the saffron in 1/4 cup of boiling water for 15 minutes.

    Place the flour in a large bowl and add 1 1/2 cups of warm water and the dissolved yeast. Add the saffron water after straining and beat the mixture well.

    Heat the corn syrup in the top of a double boiler over, not in, hot water. When warm, add the lime juice and nutmeg.

    In a large heavy skillet, heat 5 cm. (2 inches) of oil to 180o Celsius (360o Fahrenheit). Hold a finger on the tip of a large funnel and fill with the batter. Release the finger and slip batter rings into the fat. Make a few rings at a time, holding the finger on the funnel when not using. When golden, turn the breads and fry on the second side. Remove with a slotted spoon and dry on paper toweling. Dip the doughnuts into the syrup and place on waxed paper. Serve warm or at room temperature. Makes 8-10 doughnuts.


    Georgian Cheese Bread

    This bread comes from Georgia, where it was made by Jews to celebrate the holiday of Shavuot, and by Christians to celebrate the holiday of Pentecost.

    1 cup lukewarm milk
    2 packages (60 gr.) dry yeast
    1 Tbsp. + 1 tsp. sugar
    about 4 cups of flour
    125 gr. butter, softened
    675 gr. mild Camembert or Brie-type cheese
    375 gr. feta cheese or other tangy goat cheese
    1 egg, lightly beaten
    about 2 Tbsp. melted butter

     

    In a small glass, mix together 1/2 cup of the milk, the yeast and 1 tsp. of the sugar. Let stand at room temperature for 10 - 15 minutes and then add this mixture to the remaining milk.

    Place 3 cups of flour into a large bowl and make a well in the center. Add the milk, remaining sugar and the softened butter. Stir with a rubber spatula until a firm dough ball is formed.

    Turn the dough onto a floured work surface and knead for 10 minutes, adding flour as needed to prevent the dough from sticking. When the dough is elastic and no longer sticky, transfer to a greased bowl, turning it so that it is coated on all sides. Cover with a lightly dampened cloth and let stand in a warm place until doubled in bulk (about 1 1/2 hours).

    Punch the dough down and let rise again until doubled in bulk (about 30 minutes).

    Grate the Camembert cheese and crumble the goat cheese. Combine the two, add the egg and mix well.

    Punch the dough down again and then roll out on a lightly floured surface to a circle of about 50 cm. in diameter. Fold the dough into quarters and place the point in the center of a 23 cm. pan with sides about 5 cm high. Unfold the dough and let the excess hang over the sides.

    Spoon the cheese mixture onto the dough and then pick up the excess dough hanging over the edges and pleat it over the cheese. Make sure all the pleats go in the same direction. Gather the ends of the dough in the center and twist into a small knob. Let stand for 10 minutes.

    Brush the top of the dough with melted butter and bake on the center shelf of an oven that has been pre-heated to 190o Celsius (375o Fahrenheit), until the bread is golden (about 1 hour). Remove from the oven and let cool in the pan before serving. Serve warm or at room temperature.


    Challah

    Prepared especially for the celebration of the Sabbath and holidays, challah is a rich, egg-based white bread possessed of a delicate aroma, taste and texture that sits very nicely indeed on the palate. Generally braided but sometimes served in loaf form, the ideal challah is well browned on the exterior and has a fluffy, deep yellow or pure white interior. An excellent accompaniment to a meal, challah is also appropriate for sandwiches, but when served with a light coating of honey and butter, it is indeed a delicacy.

    1/2 oz (15 gr.) active dry yeast
    2 Tbsp. sugar
    4 1/2 cups flour
    1 Tbsp. salt
    2 Tbsp. vegetable oil
    2 eggs
    2 egg yolks, beaten
    2 Tbsp. poppy seeds

     

    Combine the yeast and sugar with 1/4 cup warm water and set aside, uncovered, for 5 - 10 minutes.

    Into a large mixing bowl, sift 4 cups of flour and the salt. Make a well in the center of the flour-salt mixture and drop into this the oil, the whole eggs and 1 1/4 cups of the warm water- yeast mixture. Mix, working the liquids into the flour. When well mixed, knead on a floured board until the dough is smooth. If too runny, add flour until the mixture becomes elastic.

    Place the dough in a large bowl, brush the top with oil, cover with a towel and let stand to rise in a warm place for 1 hour.

    Punch the dough down, cover and let rise again until doubled in bulk.

    Divide the dough into three equal parts and, with floured hands, roll each piece into a strip, all of equal length. Braid the strips and place them on a greased cookie sheet. Cover and let rise again until double in size. Brush the top with the egg yolks and sprinkle with the poppy seeds. Bake in a moderately hot oven until well browned (about 40 - 50 minutes). Yields 1 large or 2 small loaves.


     
     

     

    Hand-baked special matzah for Passover, Jerusalem
     

    A Special Note About Matzah

    Matzah is the unleavened bread of Passover meant to recall the haste with which the Hebrews had to prepare for their exodus from Egypt. The bread is also no stranger to Christians, for according to the New Testament (Matthew 26 and Mark 14), Jesus' last supper was to celebrate Passover, the "feast of the unleavened bread".

    Because matzah contain no leavening agents, it is a flat, dry bread. That does not mean, however, that it is without its charm. Made with or without eggs, it can be eaten plain, spread with butter and, if in a luxurious mood, with jam, honey or even with rendered chicken or goose fat. Moreover, matzah flour is used to make such traditional Jewish treats as kneidelach (matzah balls) and there is no dish more frequently associated with the Jewish kitchen than chicken soup with kneidelach.

    Because Jewish mothers so often prescribe hot chicken soup for anything ranging from the common cold to bouts of minor depression, some have come to refer to it humorously as "Jewish penicillin". Whatever its reputation, it was the favorite soup of gangster Lucky Luciano, Tzar Nicholas II, Benito Mussolini and Zelda Fitzgerald. It was also the soup served to Robespierre, about an hour before his fateful meeting with the guillotine.


    Chicken Soup with Kneidelach

    about 2 1/2 kgs. of chicken parts, including the heart, neck and gizzard
    3 stalks celery with leaves, chopped coarsely
    4 medium onions, whole
    1 large carrot, sliced
    1 parsley root, peeled and chopped
    1 bay leaf
    8 whole peppercorns
    1 1/2 tsp. salt
    pepper to taste

     

    Remove the skin and excess fat from the chicken. Rinse and cut into convenient pieces.

    Place the chicken parts in a large kettle and cover with 3 quarts (3 liters) of cold water. Cover and bring to a rapid boil. Continue boiling for 20 minutes. Uncover and skim the foam from the surface. Reduce the heat, cover again and simmer 15 minutes longer.

    Add the remaining ingredients and continue simmering, covered, for 2 hours, skimming off whatever foam rises to the surface. Remove the chicken and strain the soup. Correct the seasoning. Serve with kneidelach (recipe follows). Serve the whole onions on a separate plate and garnish, if desired, with fresh chopped parsley. Cool and well-covered, the soup may be stored for several days in the refrigerator. Serves 12-16.

    Kneidelach

    In addition to chicken soup, kneidelach may be served with meat in gravy.

    1/2 kg. matzah
    2 cups chicken stock, hot
    3 eggs, well beaten
    1 1/2 tsp. fresh parsley, chopped finely
    3 cloves garlic, minced
    1 tsp. salt
    1/2 tsp. pepper (or more to taste)

     

    Break the matzah into small pieces and place in a mixing bowl. Pour over the chicken stock and steep for 5 minutes. Drain the matzah and squeeze out the liquids carefully. Add the remaining ingredients to the drained matzah and mix well.

    Fill a large saucepan with lightly salted water and bring to the boil. Test the matzah dough by dropping a small ball into the boiling water. If the dough falls apart, add a small amount of matzah flour. Form the dough into balls about 3/4" (1 1/2 cm.) in diameter and then drop gently into the boiling water. When the balls rise to the surface reduce the heat, cover and simmer gently for 15 minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon, drain well and serve with the soup or the meat course.

     
     
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